Husky sway control

SheepOfBlue · 04-14-2008, 10:49 PM

Sorry it is not what you thought DEPO

When I changed from bias ply to radial tires on the trailer sway got a bit more hairy. It did not sway more but when it started it damped out a lot slower. So I got this handy device. Basically you get a new hitch that has an extra ball for the sway unit and you also drill your trailer and put one on it. 24" was the spec from ball to ball. My only gripe on this unit is the length could be a bit more since you can bottom it on tight radius turns (nothing you would ever do on the road). Other than that it works EXCELLANT! I put it on then went out with the trailer empty. A bit of moves that cause sway later and I had it adjusted to try. Now I also moved the RC back 2 slots (something that helps reduce sway) to change tongue weight vs last outing. So the sway might have been less but I was flying low AND passing trucks and could only feel the trailer pull a small amount and it always just damped out fast.

To use it I pull one pin out and mount it on the trailer, reinserting the pin. Then I take a couple of turns out of the tension and slide it to fit on the trailer end ball. Reset the tension and insert the pin and ready for the road (you could quickly pop it off if needed for a parking lot tight radius move).

Yes I know it is upside down. I go a right hand ball mount and a left hand sway damper (all they had

) You just pull the damper out and flip it over.

The ball mount is the hard thing to find. Valley Industries makes one that is all one piece or I think Drawtite makes on that fits over you existing one.
Overall

DEPO · 04-14-2008, 11:05 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SheepOfBlue

Sorry it is not what you thought DEPO

Ohh I thought you were going to be on Dancing with the Stars!

G-ForceJunkie · 04-15-2008, 12:47 AM

Unthread the tentioning bolts and give them a good coat of anti-seize. After a year or so of outdoor exposure, mine seized on the threads. Once a year, its also a good idea to pull the whole thing apart and wire wheel the friction bar if it gets corroded.

SheepOfBlue · 04-15-2008, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by G-ForceJunkie

Unthread the tentioning bolts and give them a good coat of anti-seize. After a year or so of outdoor exposure, mine seized on the threads. Once a year, its also a good idea to pull the whole thing apart and wire wheel the friction bar if it gets corroded.

Thanks did you leave yours on? I take it off when not driving and put it in the truck.

DEPO · 04-15-2008, 09:37 AM

Sway bars makes a huge difference....

I like the design of yours way better, ours for our 30 foot trailer for our marching band is a little more old in design.

G-ForceJunkie · 04-15-2008, 09:45 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SheepOfBlue

Thanks did you leave yours on? I take it off when not driving and put it in the truck.

Ya, mine stayed outside on the tongue with the sway bars on my old toy box.

04-14-2008, 10:49 PM	#1
SheepOfBlue SRA President Join Date: 12-18-2006 Location: Huntsville, AL Age: 46 Bike(s): CBR1000RR, RC51, VT500FT Posts: 6,363	Husky sway control Sorry it is not what you thought DEPO When I changed from bias ply to radial tires on the trailer sway got a bit more hairy. It did not sway more but when it started it damped out a lot slower. So I got this handy device. Basically you get a new hitch that has an extra ball for the sway unit and you also drill your trailer and put one on it. 24" was the spec from ball to ball. My only gripe on this unit is the length could be a bit more since you can bottom it on tight radius turns (nothing you would ever do on the road). Other than that it works EXCELLANT! I put it on then went out with the trailer empty. A bit of moves that cause sway later and I had it adjusted to try. Now I also moved the RC back 2 slots (something that helps reduce sway) to change tongue weight vs last outing. So the sway might have been less but I was flying low AND passing trucks and could only feel the trailer pull a small amount and it always just damped out fast. To use it I pull one pin out and mount it on the trailer, reinserting the pin. Then I take a couple of turns out of the tension and slide it to fit on the trailer end ball. Reset the tension and insert the pin and ready for the road (you could quickly pop it off if needed for a parking lot tight radius move). Yes I know it is upside down. I go a right hand ball mount and a left hand sway damper (all they had ) You just pull the damper out and flip it over. The ball mount is the hard thing to find. Valley Industries makes one that is all one piece or I think Drawtite makes on that fits over you existing one. Overall Attached Thumbnails __________________ A man who carries a cat by the tail learns something he can learn in no other way

04-15-2008, 09:37 AM	#5
DEPO Godspeed, #20 Join Date: 12-18-2006 Age: 33 Bike(s): Track 954 and Uly Bagger Posts: 701	Sway bars makes a huge difference.... I like the design of yours way better, ours for our 30 foot trailer for our marching band is a little more old in design. __________________ Welcome to the Dance!

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04-15-2008, 12:47 AM	#3
G-ForceJunkie Who's driving? Join Date: 12-15-2006 Location: Valencia, CA Bike(s): BMW GS1150 ADV, DRZ400 Posts: 624	Unthread the tentioning bolts and give them a good coat of anti-seize. After a year or so of outdoor exposure, mine seized on the threads. Once a year, its also a good idea to pull the whole thing apart and wire wheel the friction bar if it gets corroded.