Motard Build Stage [Done] A 'tard is born... Updated (04/04/09)
I won't have the bike in my garage for awhile due to the scheduling of my first rotation (obstetrics in Pocatello), but I do get to visit it next week on my way to Idaho. Anyway I'm still busy researching and plotting.
Stage One (the cheapest) - The conversion to street legal.
I initially thought that I would just get one of the all inclusive kits from Baja Designs or Dakar Sport. I just wasn't sold on the overall looks of either of them and thought things like, "well I like that headlight, and that other tailight, but I like those turn signals..."
It is an all inclusive wiring harness that is made in America with mil spec connectors. You can get it packaged with a variety of options. So now I'm going to match the Acerbis headlight that I like with the Baja Designs LED tailight and a different set of turn signals that I prefer. I'm going to get the wiring harness option with the flasher, horn, and handlbar switch already included and wired in. I'll wire the stator output to a regulator/rectifier, then the reg/rec to a battery, then connect the wiring harness to the battery so that the bike is running completely off of 12V DC. The total cost of the harness, headlight, turn signals, reg/rec, and battery adds up to less than the cost of the Baja Designs kit.
Also included in Stage One will be the addition of a speedometer. I'm going with either this: Trail Tech Vapor Computer Kit - Motostrano.com Or this: Electrosport Speedometer I'm leaning toward the 2nd one but I'm also still toying with the idea of mounting up a cheap GPS unit. It would fulfill the need for a speedometer and be kind of trick but then I would lose the tach and water temperature functions.
Still to come: Stage Two - SuMo Rims, Tires, and Brakes
Stage Three - Appearance Issues, catch cans, odds n' ends, I suspect this stage could go on forever. There is a chance that somewhere around this stage the F4i could go up for sale. We'll see. The plan is to end with a SuMo and an 848 before all is said and done. I just decided to do things in a different order than originally planned. The SuMo will give me a run around bike and then the 848 will be for 'special occasions.'
Last edited by slickwill; 04-04-2009 at 03:03 PM.
...dude you ride an offroad bike with slicks, 1/2 the weight of a GS, double the suspension, with a browning 50 cal going off 32" from your skull as a daily freaking driver - I'd expect anything except a nitro dragbike to be bland by comparison - SSG
...dude you ride an offroad bike with slicks, 1/2 the weight of a GS, double the suspension, with a browning 50 cal going off 32" from your skull as a daily freaking driver - I'd expect anything except a nitro dragbike to be bland by comparison - SSG
I had a Trailtech on my last dirt bike and it was pretty nice but quit working maybe from all the pounding I put it through. Thanks for the tach idea. I figured I'd stay with the stock unit mine will come with but you're giving me some ideas. Thanks.
Aww crap. That thing is awesome and now I won't be happy without it. But it's 3 times the price of what I was planning. 4 times if you count all the extras that I won't be able to live without.
I want the VR2 with the billet indicator case and the lap timer upgrade.
Edit: I'll need the external button upgrade as well. Probably more useful on an everyday basis than the lap timer upgrade.
Last edited by slickwill; 07-25-2008 at 10:12 PM.
...dude you ride an offroad bike with slicks, 1/2 the weight of a GS, double the suspension, with a browning 50 cal going off 32" from your skull as a daily freaking driver - I'd expect anything except a nitro dragbike to be bland by comparison - SSG
I went the cheap and easy route on mine, and just wired up a Sigma Sport BC800 bicycle computer. I think it was $16.
Now that I've seen that Veypor I might have to do the bike computer just to get me by until I can save enough. I had planned on just putting one of the two I listed and being done with it. I like that they even have water temperature but I can do without that to have the look and features on that VR2. The datalogging would be a blast on a motard. Now I really am going to have to sell the F4i to pay for this project.
...dude you ride an offroad bike with slicks, 1/2 the weight of a GS, double the suspension, with a browning 50 cal going off 32" from your skull as a daily freaking driver - I'd expect anything except a nitro dragbike to be bland by comparison - SSG
Here's more food for thought. Pics of the bicycle computer, my "temp gauge" sticker, and the radiator fan. I bought a three pack of the temp stickers, and I still have one left. PM me your address and I'll send one your way.
I had meant to ask about you rad fan. Where did you get it?
...dude you ride an offroad bike with slicks, 1/2 the weight of a GS, double the suspension, with a browning 50 cal going off 32" from your skull as a daily freaking driver - I'd expect anything except a nitro dragbike to be bland by comparison - SSG
The fan was already on the bike when I bought it, that's why I took a pic that had a model number. Just do a search for FP-108/DC and you should be able to get one. Here's a few links...
Dude, evl has this done right...spend $ on the ride where it will benefit you, and leave the electro-machine-farkling to those BMW hosers, seriously - you'll thank me later.
Sincerely,
Mr. I almost needed a bigger stator before deciding to can the idea of nexrad on my YZ450.
Come find yourself - GPS Discussion Forums
Time is the ultimate currency.
The Seamii are awesome.
Update, really haven't done much since the F4i hasn't sold and I've diverted funds to purchasing products that I think will be illegal soon.
What I have done is completely disassemble the bike and regrease anything with grease. Shock linkage, axles, etc. While I was at I cleaned a lot of "desert" off the bike. I took a toothbrush to almost the entire bike. Everything seems to have very little wear and is in really good shape considering the bikes former life as a Best in the Desert race bike (I confirmed that it won the Vegas to Reno).
I was also able to get it registered and insured, wasn't sure how well this was going to go since Iowa supposedly makes it nearly impossible to plate a dirt bike. I couldn't confirm anything though and was working off of heresay. I had heard that I was fine as long as it had already been titled somewhere else. The guy that I bought it from had registered and titled it in Colorado where it apparently is VERY easy and requires no inspection. There wasn't a single working light on the bike and yet he was able to bolt on a plate and go. Turns out that everything I had heard was correct so I just took in the old title and for $12 walked out with a new title and a plate. I also confirmed that there would be no way to convert one from scratch here. If you want a 'tard in Iowa you have to buy one from out of state or buy something like a DR-Z that comes street legal. Other note, it costs $20 more to insure an XR650 with State Farm than it does an F4i since they only rate by engine size. Retarded but oh well it's still cheap.
I mounted up a bike computer as was suggested above for a speedo but took it off already. The distance from the sensor to the handlebars was longer than the wire on the bike computer so I had to mount the computer way down low below the triple tree and I didn't like the way it worked out so I just used it to get a rough idea of speeds in each gear and then took it off. I'll have to shop for one with a longer wire.
...dude you ride an offroad bike with slicks, 1/2 the weight of a GS, double the suspension, with a browning 50 cal going off 32" from your skull as a daily freaking driver - I'd expect anything except a nitro dragbike to be bland by comparison - SSG
Other note, it costs $20 more to insure an XR650 with State Farm than it does an F4i since they only rate by engine size. Retarded but oh well it's still cheap.
It's also a hell of a lot easier to lose your license on an XR650R motard than an F4i, maybe that's why the insurance is more
Originally Posted by slickwill
I mounted up a bike computer as was suggested above for a speedo but took it off already. The distance from the sensor to the handlebars was longer than the wire on the bike computer so I had to mount the computer way down low below the triple tree and I didn't like the way it worked out so I just used it to get a rough idea of speeds in each gear and then took it off. I'll have to shop for one with a longer wire.
I mounted the pickup on my rear brake plastic "shark fin" and soldered extensions into the pickup wiring of the BC800.
Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles, Bubba.... - Hunter S. Thompson
I mounted the pickup on my rear brake plastic "shark fin" and soldered extensions into the pickup wiring of the BC800.
I never even considered the rear. That would be better. I don't have the "shark fin" but I could fix that. My brother did just buy a soldering gun last week. That will be tomorrow's project.
...dude you ride an offroad bike with slicks, 1/2 the weight of a GS, double the suspension, with a browning 50 cal going off 32" from your skull as a daily freaking driver - I'd expect anything except a nitro dragbike to be bland by comparison - SSG
You don't want to try to extend that kind of cable using a soldering gun unfortunately. Your best bet (unless you're proficient at soldering) is getting something ~35watt with a pencil tip. Get a wet sponge, good flux-core solder, etc.
((IIRC the wire inside the SIGMA cable is like enameled headphone wire)).
Come find yourself - GPS Discussion Forums
Time is the ultimate currency.
The Seamii are awesome.
You don't want to try to extend that kind of cable using a soldering gun unfortunately. Your best bet (unless you're proficient at soldering) is getting something ~35watt with a pencil tip. Get a wet sponge, good flux-core solder, etc.
((IIRC the wire inside the SIGMA cable is like enameled headphone wire)).
Radio Shack has them cheap. Also, don't get lead free solder, get 63/37 or 60/40 Sn/Pb.
"It's not debt per se that overwhelms an individual, corporation, or country. Rather, it is the continuous increase in debt in relation to income that causes trouble." --Warren Buffett
I did look at some that were wireless. They're all a lot more money than I paid for mine. Now looking back at the amount of hassle that I went through, and will go through if I decide to extend the wire, I maybe should have just went that route. I just don't want to spend $30 on one and then find out that it quits working above 60mph or some stupid thing like that.
...dude you ride an offroad bike with slicks, 1/2 the weight of a GS, double the suspension, with a browning 50 cal going off 32" from your skull as a daily freaking driver - I'd expect anything except a nitro dragbike to be bland by comparison - SSG
I run Cateye wireless on all my bicycles, but they can be a bit flaky.
The sensor is pretty blocky.
"It's not debt per se that overwhelms an individual, corporation, or country. Rather, it is the continuous increase in debt in relation to income that causes trouble." --Warren Buffett
I tried a wireless one once, went back to the wired type. Even in very close proximity it was flaky at best.
Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles, Bubba.... - Hunter S. Thompson
Okay so a couple little issues. Anyone have any good ideas for cleaning this off of a radiator? It's a weird oily/gunky spot. I'm not sure how it would have even gotten there since nothing oily is anywhere near it. rad1.JPG
I've been pretending it wasn't there since it was hidden under these shrouds.JPG
Also any ideas about how to mount a rad fan back here? rad rear.JPG
I have aftermarket radiators (larger) but they don't have the convenient little tabs that evl used for mounting his fan as seen above. I'm going to have to get creative.
In other news I pulled the carb a couple days ago, just cuz mostly, to find that the carb did indeed have the choke plate mod as promised. That's good news. carb.jpg
...dude you ride an offroad bike with slicks, 1/2 the weight of a GS, double the suspension, with a browning 50 cal going off 32" from your skull as a daily freaking driver - I'd expect anything except a nitro dragbike to be bland by comparison - SSG
Anyone have any good ideas for cleaning this off of a radiator? It's a weird oily/gunky spot. I'm not sure how it would have even gotten there since nothing oily is anywhere near it.
Carburetor cleaner if that does not work (and it should) you can take it off and bring it to a radiator shop and have it dipped, which would not be a bad idea anyhow.
Go to the cooling section, then scroll down to "Electric quick mount kit" or just use zip ties.
I have aftermarket radiators (larger) but they don't have the convenient little tabs that evl used for mounting his fan as seen above. I'm going to have to get creative.
A radiator shop can easily weld some on there for you
Amateurs practices until they get it right. A professional practices until they can't get it wrong.
Go to the cooling section, then scroll down to "Electric quick mount kit" or just use zip ties.
Done.
...dude you ride an offroad bike with slicks, 1/2 the weight of a GS, double the suspension, with a browning 50 cal going off 32" from your skull as a daily freaking driver - I'd expect anything except a nitro dragbike to be bland by comparison - SSG
Okay so a couple little issues. Anyone have any good ideas for cleaning this off of a radiator? It's a weird oily/gunky spot. I'm not sure how it would have even gotten there since nothing oily is anywhere near it.
In other news I pulled the carb a couple days ago, just cuz mostly, to find that the carb did indeed have the choke plate mod as promised. That's good news. Attachment 12752
I cleaned my rads with Weld-O welding surface prep. Basically hydroflouric acid. They are bright and shiny now I put them in the sink in the garage and let them soak, rinsed them off and they looked like new.
I've not heard about the choke plate mod, do you have any more info on it? I probably need to do it to mine, as it will not start when the choke is closed, you have to find just the right spot.
Being shot out of a cannon will always be better than being squeezed out of a tube. That is why God made fast motorcycles, Bubba.... - Hunter S. Thompson
Precision concepts has a version of the same thing. That's what my bike has in it. I've tried searching their site though and can't find it now that they built their new site.
...dude you ride an offroad bike with slicks, 1/2 the weight of a GS, double the suspension, with a browning 50 cal going off 32" from your skull as a daily freaking driver - I'd expect anything except a nitro dragbike to be bland by comparison - SSG
More on the carb mod here. It basically tells you how to pull the flapper off of the stock choke plate (simple) and says that if then rejetted with a 68s or 70s that it will then start easier as well as having the benefit of not breaking into pieces and shredding your engine.
From the pics it appears that this is actually what was done with mine rather than having the precision concepts one installed.
...dude you ride an offroad bike with slicks, 1/2 the weight of a GS, double the suspension, with a browning 50 cal going off 32" from your skull as a daily freaking driver - I'd expect anything except a nitro dragbike to be bland by comparison - SSG
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Originally Posted by slickwill
Thanks for the tach idea. I figured I'd stay with the stock unit mine will come with but you're giving me some ideas. Thanks.
Radio Shack has them cheap. Also, don't get lead free solder, get 63/37 or 60/40 Sn/Pb.
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