Thread: Plastics for a 2005 CBR1000RR

I just got this email today:

NESBA & Armour Bodies*_

Three years ago NESBA and Armour Bodies created a partnership. This partnership was designed to give our members access to the best aftermarket bodywork on the market at a special price. This partnership has been strong for the past three years and continues to be ever evolving to ensure the best benefits to our members.

In 2008, there was a change in the Armour Bodies supply chain. Armour Bodies decided in order to better serve the US customers they needed to have a US distributer. Armour decided Woodcraft Technologies would be the official US importer.

Woodcraft has the customer service expertise to handle the volume that NESBA members can generate. Woodcraft wanted to ensure NESBA members knew that they are dedicated to help them with all their bodywork needs.

_*ARMOUR BODIES PROMOTION - FREE NESBA MEMBERSHIP!*_
Woodcraft, NESBA and Armour have decided to do a mid-season promotion to show our members we are dedicated to help them with their bodywork needs. NESBA staff and control riders prefer to use quality bodywork like Armour Bodies instead of some of the cheap low quality alternatives that have come available today. Armour Bodies is lighter, more flexible, actually fits properly, costs less to prep for paint and is far more durable.
Our mid-year promotion is as follows: Any of the bodywork below (most sets are only $549) you will get both *FREE shipping *and a *FREE NESBA membership*.
Current model applications:
**Honda**
F4
F4i
CBR600RR 03-04
CBR600RR 05-06
CBR600RR 07-08
CBR1000RR 04-05
RC51

**Kawasaki**

ZX6 05-06
ZX6 07-08
ZX10 06-07

**Suzuki**

SV650 99-02
SV650 03-08
GSXR600 01-03/ GSXR750 00-03
GSXR600 04-05 / GSXR750 04-05
06-07 GSXR600/750
08 GSXR600/750
GSXR1000 05-06
GSXR1000 07-08

**Yamaha**

R6 99-02
R6 03-05
R6 06-07
R6 08
R1 02-03
R1 04-06
R1 07-08

**Ducati**

748/916
749/999

*Aprilia*

RS250
RS50

Vortex Race Fairing Bracket - Honda CBR1000RR - Fits 2004 to 2007 Models - KneeDraggers.com

Originally Posted by Jetbdude

Check with Northernrr, I think he as a spare set of race body work he might be willing to sell.

Shipping and taxed will probably cost more than the items, oi?

Originally Posted by evl_twn

Woodcraft has the customer service expertise to handle the volume that NESBA members can generate. Woodcraft wanted to ensure NESBA members knew that they are dedicated to help them with all their bodywork needs.

_*ARMOUR BODIES PROMOTION - FREE NESBA MEMBERSHIP!*_
Woodcraft, NESBA and Armour have decided to do a mid-season promotion to show our members we are dedicated to help them with their bodywork needs. NESBA staff and control riders prefer to use quality bodywork like Armour Bodies instead of some of the cheap low quality alternatives that have come available today. Armour Bodies is lighter, more flexible, actually fits properly, costs less to prep for paint and is far more durable.
Our mid-year promotion is as follows: Any of the bodywork below (most sets are only $549) you will get both *FREE shipping *and a *FREE NESBA membership*.
Current model applications:
**Honda**
CBR1000RR 04-05

OK, so I'm interested. How do I buy it? I can't find it anywhere.

Woodcraft-CFM

Thanks. There's someone asking for it already but I'll give it a try...

Try Honda Motorcycles - FireBlades.org they have a lot of stuff for the big hondas

Yea but they do have a lot of parts this is a much better site

i guess i should say mottorcycleaddicts is a better site i like it better anyway

thought i might have hit a sore spot

Originally Posted by ONEvcs

As some of you know, I crashed the 2005 CBR1000RR at Grattan. Structurally there’s no damage that I can see so far. It starts up at first try and seems to run fine. It does have plenty of cosmetic damage though.
I need an upper, lower, and the fairing stay for the upper.
My plan was to order a full set of e-racing plastics but I guess that’s gone south since they seem to be out of business.
I need suggestions on where to get either a full set of plastics, or the individual pieces. Something that does not need too much work to fit would be nice.
Does anyone sale the fairing stay aftermarket?
Suggestions, please.
Thanks in advance.

Here's an easier option....

Junk the idea of re-fitting the plastics, get a set of Renthals and streetfighter the bugger

Originally Posted by Yamasuzi

Here's an easier option....

Junk the idea of re-fitting the plastics, get a set of Renthals and streetfighter the bugger

That's how it is right now minus the handle bars. It's tempting, I must admit. No tag nor light, so I'm only riding around the neighborhood. I'm waiting for a couple of personal issues to be resolved to make up my mind.

Originally Posted by ONEvcs

That's how it is right now minus the handle bars. It's tempting, I must admit. No tag nor light, so I'm only riding around the neighborhood. I'm waiting for a couple of personal issues to be resolved to make up my mind.

It's a lot cheaper, easier to fix if it gets binned again, and the added leverage on the bars makes for nimble turning... headlights are easy to come by, I think you'll just need a set of bar risers to put the Renthals in. Not sure how you'd do the clocks though.....

Originally Posted by Yamasuzi

It's a lot cheaper, easier to fix if it gets binned again, and the added leverage on the bars makes for nimble turning... headlights are easy to come by, I think you'll just need a set of bar risers to put the Renthals in. Not sure how you'd do the clocks though.....

I can do the clocks like a rooster... sorry bad joke.
The clocks are stand alone so that wouldn't be a problem. The Upper tripple would have to be replaced I think to fit the risers. I'm not sure. I know theres a couple companies selling kits to do just this. I just want to take it to the track, and for that, plastics do help. We'll see.

Originally Posted by ONEvcs

I can do the clocks like a rooster... sorry bad joke.
The clocks are stand alone so that wouldn't be a problem. The Upper tripple would have to be replaced I think to fit the risers. I'm not sure. I know theres a couple companies selling kits to do just this. I just want to take it to the track, and for that, plastics do help. We'll see.

I'm pretty sure there's a clamp kit which fits to the top of the forks, letting you put Renthal bars on. If I remember rightly, you need to drop the forks about 1" through the top yoke, and they clamp on the ends that are exposed, although this will speed up your steering somewhat... perfect for track days, though a little unstable on fast straights other than that, refit the clip-ons, and make it a cafe special.... don't forget the crash bungs, the frame will more exposed!!!

I have to decide if I keep the bike, or sale it and get another one, or just just quit riding all together. Just a few more days.

Originally Posted by Hammer

Dropping the forks 1 inch is a big deal, and will adversely affect the suspension.

Shouldn't affect the suspension at all, it will still work the same way as ever, but it is a radical step in frame geometry, and will speed up the steering something chronic, possibly making it more prone towards tank slapping, but with a steering damper, can be easily dialled out. My engineering tutor had the forks of his FZR600RR dropped by an inch, and the rear jacked up by an inch and a half, and it went round corners with virtually no input on the bars, although he had no steering damper, and the bloody thing would slap it's way down every straight.... He rode it amazingly, it was set up the way he liked it, but I never got on with it, as I've never really got on with the sharper end of sports bikes. I don't weigh enough to keep the things down. He had a CR500 too, and that was virtually unrideable for me, as I had to sit on the petrol tank to open it up, otherwise it would try and flip every time I got on the power.
If however you are worried about the extra weight on the front wheel from the forks being dropped, you can go the expensive technical route and get the forks resprung, revalved etc, unless they're fully adjustable, whereby you should be able to adjust the settings to suit you.
If dropping the forks makes such a huge impact on the suspension, maybe motocross bikes converted to supermoto shouldn't be done, as fitting a 17" wheel where a 21" would normally be fitted would affect the suspension too much..... that's around a 2" drop on the front, depending on the tyre profile.
Yes you could argue that a 21" inch wheel crosser has a more relaxed geometry, but the suspension is set up for the weight/power of the machine, and dropping it 2" is purely to speed up the responsiveness of the steering and to change the braking feel, it won't adversely affect the way the suspension works.
If you ever manage to find a copy of "Motorcycle Tuning - Chassis" by John Robinson, read it. Fantastic book for guidance on chassis and suspension set up .

Oh yeah, and ONEvcs.... don't you dare even think about giving up on the bikes now..... I'll have to come and spank you when I get there