What is the most annoying oil change you've ever done on a bike?

**SomeStrangeGuy** · 12-30-2008 08:11 AM

Mine would have to be me 02 WR426. It involved taking off at least two pieces of armor from the bike (water pump cover and or mega woods skidplate. Then I would have to pull 2 drainplugs IIRC and a cover and filter on the side of the engine. Most of the time my process would be to come home from riding and get it up to temp (shut it down) pull the main plug which took out most of the oil, then hang it at a 45 degree angle (barend or frame point -to tiedown - to rafter) and pop the oil cover/filter/mess on the side and just leave it that way overnight.

This was in the days of the dry sump though...not sure if the process is still similar with the reworked motors. The annoying part is the thing only took like a liter of oil in the first place...just took awhile to get it out of all the nooks and crannies.

My KLR is similar, but since it's a bigger clunkier engine without as much sculpting on the outside or looney orifices on the inside, I can just put the pan under it and pull the plugs and come back an hour later. Though the KLR gets extra points for having a separate bypass valve piece that goes inside the filter. Why TF Kawi couldn't just make it have a normal canister filter at that point I'll never know.

**bwhip** · 12-30-2008 08:31 AM

It was always a PIA on my '06 CBR600RR. With the Leo Vince exhaust system on there, the oil filter was difficult to access behind and between the header pipes. There wasn't enough room for an oil filter wrench to get over the end of the filter, so I always had to use one of those rubber strap wrenches on it. In addition to that, there was always a need to do a bunch of masking of the header pipes so that they didn't get completely coated with oil from removing the filter.

Comparatively, on the Ducs and the Aprilia, they're pretty easy.

**SheepOfBlue** · 12-30-2008 08:49 AM

The one on the RC after I tossed the clutch

**smkeatr** · 12-30-2008 09:31 PM

I remember reading the directions straight from the book on the 929 when they said to remove the side plastic, drop the exhaust and all. After cutting down the cap style filter wrench twice to get it to fit behind the header pipes, I wasn't going to drop the exhaust, It was so thin it wouldn't bite on the filter.

The first oil change took all afternoon and 2 trips to the parts store for filter wrenches.

I can thank the forums and the people here for letting me in on the channel lock, destroy the filter, trick.

**BizJetGuy** · 12-31-2008 09:34 AM

Originally Posted by smkeatr

I remember reading the directions straight from the book on the 929 when they said to remove the side plastic, drop the exhaust and all. After cutting down the cap style filter wrench twice to get it to fit behind the header pipes, I wasn't going to drop the exhaust, It was so thin it wouldn't bite on the filter.

The first oil change took all afternoon and 2 trips to the parts store for filter wrenches.

I can thank the forums and the people here for letting me in on the channel lock, destroy the filter, trick.

Ditto...

The 929 was a hassle to change oil - I could never keep the headers from getting oil all over them.

The Aprilia, in contrast, is very simple. Dry sump so there are actually two drain plugs but both are easily accessed and the centerstand makes life grand. Different animal, though.

**CBR929RE** · 12-31-2008 10:31 AM

I've never had any problem with changing the oil on my 929. wrap the headers in tin foil, no mess. never had any problems with the filter with stock headers or Sato. Only problem I ever had was getting my oil drain pan under there. easy fix was to use a deep aluminum baking pan.

**BobcatSig** · 12-31-2008 02:19 PM

Originally Posted by smkeatr

I remember reading the directions straight from the book on the 929 when they said to remove the side plastic, drop the exhaust and all. After cutting down the cap style filter wrench twice to get it to fit behind the header pipes, I wasn't going to drop the exhaust, It was so thin it wouldn't bite on the filter.

The first oil change took all afternoon and 2 trips to the parts store for filter wrenches.

I can thank the forums and the people here for letting me in on the channel lock, destroy the filter, trick.

Went through the same damn thing this summer. F-in' bleepin' extra oil filter wrench.

It was the same on my F4.

I use wax paper and painters tape to hold it together on the 929 as its cheaper (usually) than tin foil.

**MSGT-R** · 12-31-2008 05:21 PM

Originally Posted by bwhip

It was always a PIA on my '06 CBR600RR. With the Leo Vince exhaust system on there, the oil filter was difficult to access behind and between the header pipes. There wasn't enough room for an oil filter wrench to get over the end of the filter, so I always had to use one of those rubber strap wrenches on it. In addition to that, there was always a need to do a bunch of masking of the header pipes so that they didn't get completely coated with oil from removing the filter.

Comparatively, on the Ducs and the Aprilia, they're pretty easy.

+1 on that! What a pain!! You didn't mention removing the coolant overflow to get it out..
I just let it drip and chased it up with brake cleaner after wipe-down.
My CBR1000RR is slightly easier, the oil filter location changed.

**Mojave954** · 01-01-2009 09:19 AM

WR 450F hands down...

Drop the skid plate 4 bolts
Empty the frame res 1 bolt (steel bolt into aluminum

)
Pull crackcase plug 1 bolt
Pull oil filter 3 bolts
Pull side bolt for oil dribble 1 bolt
BY THE BOOK WHICH I DID ONCE ADD ONS
Pull frame strainer 1 bolt, torqued to the moon and painted.
Pull oil conduit on lower rt side of bike 2 bolts and fragile aluminum

First time this took me about 1.5 hrs and being PO'ed quite a bit. Remember that the little paper oil filter cartridge was 15 bucks didn't help. Put in a permanent one that paid for itself in 3 oil changes, which happended at least every 3 rides or so. By the end, had it down to about 1/2 hr.

Easiest is by far the FJR. Everything is on the same side.
Bike on sidestand
remove drain plug
remove filter

BAM... thats it. No fairing removal. No filter on this side, bolt on that side and fill somewhere else. ALL within 6 inches of one another.

The GF's F650 GS is about like the WR.
Remove faux tank panel gotta be 5 bolts
Remove lower hose on res tank, have pan ready
remove skid plate 3 bolts
remove drain plug 1 bolt
remove oil filter 5 bolts

The R 1200 GS isn't that bad...

bash plate 4 bolts (3 different sizes)
remove filter

**luvtolean** · 01-01-2009 09:54 AM

I'd say my 929 with the Micron Serpents.

**slickwill** · 01-01-2009 08:12 PM

Originally Posted by Mojave954

WR 450F hands down...

Drop the skid plate 4 bolts
Empty the frame res 1 bolt (steel bolt into aluminum

)
Pull crackcase plug 1 bolt
Pull oil filter 3 bolts
Pull side bolt for oil dribble 1 bolt
BY THE BOOK WHICH I DID ONCE ADD ONS
Pull frame strainer 1 bolt, torqued to the moon and painted.
Pull oil conduit on lower rt side of bike 2 bolts and fragile aluminum

This sounds a lot like the XR650R except that the oil filter cover is 5 or 6 bolts. Then the sump isn't big enough to hold all the oil so you have to add about 7/8th of a quart to the sump then kick the bike a few times to pump some through, then add a little more, then finally start the bike, run a bit to get more oil pumped through, now you can add the next half quart to the sump. Then run till warm so that you can finalize the oil level. Also the filler for the sump is a pain to get to with any sort of conventional funnel, a funnel with flex tip is almost a necessity.

**SomeStrangeGuy** · 01-02-2009 01:50 AM

We need someone with a KTM ex to post up here, they put most of these stories to shame.

Mojave - doesen't sound like it's changed much since the 426 days! I forgot a few steps as you can see though

**Latebraking** · 01-03-2009 12:39 AM

My '08 CBR1000 has the rest of my bikes I've owned beat hands down. It's a pita.

**CBR929RE** · 01-03-2009 02:47 PM

Originally Posted by Latebraking

My '08 CBR1000 has the rest of my bikes I've owned beat hands down. It's a pita.

it sounds like everything on that bike is a huge pain in the ass.

how long did it take you to change the oil?

**sinfuldragon** · 01-03-2009 06:36 PM

the 900rr.
Everything from the one piece lower that you have to baby out to not scratch the shit out of it to the fact that its lowered so even on the stands the *@#$%@#* oil pan wouldn't fit under it. The ONLY easy thing on this bike was getting the oil filter off. Not sure if the stock exhaust would make that harder but with the Micron Full System it was very easy.

**Latebraking** · 01-03-2009 07:41 PM

Originally Posted by CBR929RE

it sounds like everything on that bike is a huge pain in the ass.

how long did it take you to change the oil?

I didn't time it, but I figure 45 minutes from when the drain plug comes out to when it's all back together and I fire it back up.

On a side note, I can change out the shock in about 25 minutes, which is handy at the moment while I experiment with spring rates and valving on the Penske shock.

I've not ventured beyond those two areas, but can see from the way Honda has gone origami on the fitment of all the panels, I will not enjoy removing both fairing lowers and the upper. I miss my GSX-R750 in regards to mechanic friendliness.

**sinfuldragon** · 01-03-2009 07:45 PM

speaking of oil changes I have a side question.

when all is said in done and the bike is sitting vertical the oil should be between the lines.

When the bike is started, should all the oil be gone from the viewing window or should there be some left to see?

**Latebraking** · 01-03-2009 09:12 PM

Originally Posted by sinfuldragon

speaking of oil changes I have a side question.

when all is said in done and the bike is sitting vertical the oil should be between the lines.

When the bike is started, should all the oil be gone from the viewing window or should there be some left to see?

It should be gone, since it is circulating through the engine. You may see a little oil washing down the window, which is flinging off of the spinning clutch.

**sinfuldragon** · 01-03-2009 09:19 PM

Good to know, mine are over filled then....

**Latebraking** · 01-03-2009 10:07 PM

Originally Posted by sinfuldragon

Good to know, mine are over filled then....

Don't be too hasty on your conclusion. What I said is based on my experiences with my bikes. I know that when my engines are running, the oil window is largely clear, with a little oil washing down the window. When I shut it off and the bike is vertical, the oil level is at the upper line.

If your bike shows the oil level at the upper line while vertical, but you can still see oil resting in the window (but below where you filled it) with the engine running, it does not necessarily mean you overfilled it. Just make sure the bike is verical to check the level and put it between the lines.

Beyond that,the only times to worry are if you see no oil in the window with the engine off & the bike is vertical, and when the engine is running and you still see the oil at the level you filled it to, that would mean your oil pump is on vacation.....

**bzwyatt** · 01-04-2009 12:11 PM

My Z is the easiest thing to change the oil on; the filter is right at the front of the engine, nothing is in the way at all. Nothing is under it either, so you can't drip oil on anything. Naked bike are good for that I guess.

I guess this isn't annoying in the same way you're all talking about, but for me the most annoying oil change was when I forgot to put the cap back on the fill-hole (on my first bike; a Kawi LTD 440). Started her up and oil sprayed all over me.

I never forgot the cap again.

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