I think the problem is more likely to be adhesion primer to bodywork, base coat to primer, clear coat to base coat. It doesn't take much paint to do MC bodywork - I'd suggest you take the color down to an automotive paint store and see if they can match it. If you don't want to screw around with clearcoat, you can ask them to make it up in a one-step formulation. Then you can get the primer and flex-plastic chemicals that are compatible with that paint for that application.
There are kits he can sell you that can essentially take the place of an aerosol can.
It might cost more, but you won't have to do it again.
Yeah I am in the middle of "tripple" checking my work currently, I am thinking for the extra 30 bucks it would be well worth it to have the right stuff...
I have spent a LOT of time trying to get this proper(for a track body anyway) and it would SUCK to have to resand and try it again(not to mention EXPENSIVE,)
I tried the "Flex primer" and it didn't work worth a sh!t... so hoepfully auto high solid primer will... I may end up redoing the whole thing yet...
I'm good that way, both primer and paint are Acrylic based. so I shouldn't have any adhesion problems. I was just thinking about something... I will likely go and browse the color books and find something I like close to that shade...
JBD...Colors are top secret as of now... You'll have to wait until they go by you to see them...(or at least until you are loading your bike in to my trailer to head to grattan, but the first sounded better)
If you need help with the finish I can give some input. I have perfected the No Sand Orange Peel Finish
I don't know man, yours looks better than mine. maybe combined if we do an orange bike would go get the rolling orange, complete with texture and everything. it'd be the new fur.
"If everything seems under control, you're just not going fast enough" - Mario Andretti
started painting a while ago... I am finding that I have some "fuzzyness" in the paint. Kinda has a rough feeling to it. Can I wet sand this to smooth it out? I would like a HIGH gloss finish on this when done. I am not doing clearcoat yet, will it fill the high and low spots in the paint?(I am talking very small ones the bodywork actually woked out pretty well) or should I sand it lightly with a 1200-16600 grit paper?
I am not doing clearcoat yet, will it fill the high and low spots in the paint?(I am talking very small ones the bodywork actually woked out pretty well)
No. The clearcoat will highlight the flaws. Be very gentle wetsanding though... you can screw up the colour, especially if you're using a metallic or pearl.
Evil will always triumph, because good is dumb.
-Dark Helmet
Crime ain't sumfin you should do. It's sumfin you should don't.
-Ali G
Lobster tail and Beer. Tree o' my favorite tings.
-Newfie Proverb
OK, sounds good, LIGHT wetsand until I get to the desired smoothness on this one before clearcoat application.
How long after painting do I have to wait until I can sand? It is hard to the touch now, sitting at about 4-5 hours after the most recent spray. I am 100% covered with no light or dark spots and it looks to be very consistant.
I just had it outside and it's gonna look pretty good, as long as I don't screw it up...
OK, sounds good, LIGHT wetsand until I get to the desired smoothness on this one before clearcoat application.
How long after painting do I have to wait until I can sand? It is hard to the touch now, sitting at about 4-5 hours after the most recent spray. I am 100% covered with no light or dark spots and it looks to be very consistant.
I just had it outside and it's gonna look pretty good, as long as I don't screw it up...
I would test sand an inconspicous area first. On a hot day I have sanded fresh paint four hours later. In areas where it went thick it had not dried completely and clumped when sanded.
Are you sanding out the orange peel? The newer paints just like the newer cars seem to have some OP built into it. It dissapears when clear coated.
You are probably too late for this advice... I use the chromabase system from dupont. Its specialized for speed and spot repair so a shop can get a car in and out in a day. Its pricey but fast and the clearcoat cures the paint.
Originally Posted by wdgah Actually, I preferred "compulsive and incessant ideological dominatrix", but it didn't roll off the tongue as well ...
I just finished the fist wet sand and man, MUCH better... I am getting pretty excited to get this done. Hopefully I will have it back together by the end of the week.
It is naked, but ridable right now but, I have a couple of little things I want done yet.(IE water wetter flush and a CLEANING)
I don't know man, yours looks better than mine. maybe combined if we do an orange bike would go get the rolling orange, complete with texture and everything. it'd be the new fur.
I have decided that the Orange Peel finish makes the bike faster, sorte of like the dimples on a golf ball
OK, I think that I may have solved my blistering problem, lots of swearing helps and it's still not perfect, but I need it together on monday, and besides the uglier it is the better I will be able to ride...
I am at the stage now where I am doing my final stage of wet sanding on the peices that I have finished. I am using 1200 or 1500(I can't remember) and LIGHTLY removing anything abrasive(Like overspray or what have you)
Once I get that done, how do I go about bringing up the "shine" ? Just rubbing compound and elbow grease? or is there some special trick that I should know about?
Almost done with the questions(Hopefully) about body work anyway.
OK, I think that I may have solved my blistering problem, lots of swearing helps and it's still not perfect, but I need it together on monday, and besides the uglier it is the better I will be able to ride...
I am at the stage now where I am doing my final stage of wet sanding on the peices that I have finished. I am using 1200 or 1500(I can't remember) and LIGHTLY removing anything abrasive(Like overspray or what have you)
Once I get that done, how do I go about bringing up the "shine" ? Just rubbing compound and elbow grease? or is there some special trick that I should know about?
Almost done with the questions(Hopefully) about body work anyway.
On the clear coat, use 2500 grit for a better shine. Get all the areas with the 2500, but you can use the 1500 for rougher areas. For the polish, I use Megiars polish and use a buffer with a terry cloth bonnet over a wool bonnet. It is messy but it works. Put some polish on the bonnet to get it wet with the polish and then put some polish on the panel that you want to polish. Do this in sensationalized areas, if you try and do too much you will lose track of what is done and what is still to do. Use light pressure and move the buffer around the area, do not let it sit in one plase or you will burn the paint. Then you have to start all over.
BTW, I just picked up a new spray gun today. Devilbliss finishline HVLP with a 1.3 and 1.5 tip
Amateurs practices until they get it right. A professional practices until they can't get it wrong.
Me either, it hasn't looked like the bike I LOVE riding in some time now... it was stripped after the last track day that we did together and hasn't been back together since.
Makes it VERY hard to stay motivated to get it done... but now, it is starting to come together and I am VERY pleased, even if there are a lot of flaws in it... it's mine and I LOVE IT...
Packed some of the trailer tonight too I have EVERYTHING I used to take to the track in the trailer and I could still fit another bike in there... plus I still have the truck to fill... I could almost move out
Low speed or high speed? buffer. I'm thinking high speed cause that'll make me faster right...
Can I do this by hand or am I going to have to make a trip to canadian tire in a hurry tomorrow night?
Sounds like a nice gun, any pics?
You can do it by hand, but your arms will look like Popeye when you are done. I use a variable/high speed buffer. You can use an orbital, but if the color is dark it will not be real glossy.
This shit starts adding up, doesn't it?
Amateurs practices until they get it right. A professional practices until they can't get it wrong.
Niiice...
I am going to be a lighter color this year... you'll see soon enough though...
Where do you find 2500 grit paper, the highest I've seen has been 1500...
How many coats of clear should be on there before I start? do I want a thik coating of it, as smooth as I can get it? (acheived by numerous light coatings?)
Niiice...
I am going to be a lighter color this year... you'll see soon enough though...
Where do you find 2500 grit paper, the highest I've seen has been 1500...
How many coats of clear should be on there before I start? do I want a thik coating of it, as smooth as I can get it? (acheived by numerous light coatings?)
I do 2 double coats of clear.
One coat consists of one light coat just to get most of the panel covered and then come right back and cover the panel real good. Just at the point it is about to run, but doesn't. Let dry for 4 hrs and do it again. I then take the 2500 grit paper and go over the panel till everything is smooth and then polish it. I get all my supplies from an auto parts store here in town. You may ask a body shop where is a good place for supplies.
If you do get a run, do not try and fix it when it is wet. Blowing air on it will not help. Experience!
Let it dry completely and sand it out
Amateurs practices until they get it right. A professional practices until they can't get it wrong.
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Originally Posted by NorthernRR
I have EVERYTHING I used to take to the track in the trailer and I could still fit another bike in there... plus I still have the truck to fill... I could almost move out
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