GM Truck front wheel bearing help

**JimmyNeutral** · 02-14-2008 03:56 PM

2005 Chevrolet 2500HD 2WD at 30,000 miles.

The truck has gradually developed a noisy front wheel bearing. It appears that the front hub has to be replaced as a unit, the task looks quite simple so I would like to do the job myself.

I have seen online parts sites that list the Timken manufactured hub for around $190, but they say that fitment is for 4WD/AWD.

I'm guessing that this would be the right part for a 2WD, just that there is no drive shaft to engage with the splines in the hub (the hub remains a virgin). I see that there is a blanking off cover arrangement on the inside of the current hub.

Anyone had any experience with this? Thanks

**SheepOfBlue** · 02-14-2008 04:04 PM

Advanced auto parts online lists one and says "Hub Assembly; 8 Stud Hub; 4WD; CAUTION: WILL NOT FIT 2WD"

**luvtolean** · 02-14-2008 04:07 PM

Yes, it's a weak point of this chassis.

The unit I got for my 4WD came from Napa Auto had Timken bearings in it.

I hope you have a big breaker bar and a piece of pipe as there are a couple of jesus bolts in there torqued at somewhere around 250 ft-pounds.

Other than that, the job is pretty easy, and it is pretty well designed for serviceability.

In the thread I posted, there is a link to a how-to for the 4WD. Compare the pics to what your truck looks like, and you'll get an idea of parts interchangeability.

**ND4SPD** · 02-14-2008 04:22 PM

30k miles?

Warranty doesn't cover that?

**JimmyNeutral** · 02-14-2008 04:57 PM

Originally Posted by SheepOfBlue

Advanced auto parts online lists one and says "Hub Assembly; 8 Stud Hub; 4WD; CAUTION: WILL NOT FIT 2WD"

Thanks for that info Sheep. I can't find a 2WD compatible unit anywhere online. I'll just have to call the local GM parts dept.

Originally Posted by luvtolean

I hope you have a big breaker bar and a piece of pipe as there are a couple of jesus bolts in there torqued at somewhere around 250 ft-pounds.

Well, I have a compressor and impact driver that may finally get some use. Thanks for the heads up though.

Originally Posted by luvtolean

In the thread I posted, there is a link to a how-to for the 4WD. Compare the pics to what your truck looks like, and you'll get an idea of parts interchangeability.

The site wanted me to register as a user. I did buy a Chilton workshop manual for reference, it seems to imply that 2WD and 4WD is the exact same procedure.

Originally Posted by ND4SPD

30k miles?

Warranty doesn't cover that?

I'm not sure. I bought the truck used about 18 months ago. The previous owner said that there was about 12 months of warranty left at that time.
I should ask my local GM dealer about that.

**luvtolean** · 02-14-2008 04:59 PM

3yr/36k was stanard on my truck when new. No deductible. No idea if it was transferable.

The extended warranty I purchased had a $300 deduct IIRC, it wouldn't have been worth the hassle.

**seamus** · 02-14-2008 06:23 PM

Originally Posted by luvtolean

...designed for serviceability...

definition: we know it's going to break so we'll make it easy on ourselves to replace but still list it in the service guide as a 5.0 hour job. This way, we can do it in 1 hour but get a 4.0 hour bonus charged at $75/hour.

Check Auto Parts Fast at RockAuto

**JimmyNeutral** · 02-14-2008 07:06 PM

Originally Posted by seamus

Check Auto Parts Fast at RockAuto

Excellent! Thank you Seamus.

They have 2WD front hub. Non-stock item - shipping delayed up to 34 business days.

The only thing I'm not sure of is 'Excl 2" body raise'. Would my truck, being an HD with towing package have a factory raise? Is there a way I can tell?

Thanks again

**Hammer** · 02-14-2008 08:44 PM

On the bolt torque. Unless you have a real good impact (think snap on, mac, matco, etc..)and are running 175psi an impact will not budge it.

But I would certainly bring it to the dealer and see what they can do. The warranty like LTL said should be 36k

**luvtolean** · 02-14-2008 08:52 PM

Originally Posted by seamus

definition: we know it's going to break so we'll make it easy on ourselves to replace but still list it in the service guide as a 5.0 hour job. This way, we can do it in 1 hour but get a 4.0 hour bonus charged at $75/hour.

To be fair, my friend owns a shop, and said going to the service guides was forced by several factors, most notably the bureau of auto repair and lawsuits. The guides are pricey, and he said for every one of the "bonus" jobs, there are several that go well over book time. He said his shop didn't make more or less money bidding jobs out of the guide...but he did get to pay several k for the books, and it is an ongoing expense.

Originally Posted by Hammer

On the bolt torque. Unless you have a real good impact (think snap on, mac, matco, etc..)and are running 175psi an impact will not budge it.

I have a nice high torque IR and 150PSI at the reg wide open...it won't get out bolts my longest pry bar will do.

I added a long pipe to that prybar for the hub on my truck as I don't need another hernia operation (or busted fingers when the bitch lets go). Per my last thread, 221 lbs-ft with threadlocker.

Jimmy, I'm local to you, if you need help let me know.

**slickwill** · 02-14-2008 08:53 PM

But I would certainly bring it to the dealer and see what they can do. The warranty like LTL said should be 36k

It's probably the 3 years that will get him. If it was purchased late 2004 or early 2005 time is up.

**Hammer** · 02-14-2008 09:18 PM

Originally Posted by luvtolean

I have a nice high torque IR and 150PSI at the reg wide open...it won't get out bolts my longest pry bar will do.

I added a long pipe to that prybar for the hub on my truck as I don't need another hernia operation (or busted fingers when the bitch lets go). Per my last thread, 221 lbs-ft with threadlocker.

We have a couple of bolts on some of the equipment that is torqued at 1,300 ft lbs

**slickwill** · 02-14-2008 09:29 PM

Originally Posted by Hammer

We have a couple of bolts on some of the equipment that is torqued at 1,300 ft lbs

Swear word

**seamus** · 02-14-2008 09:55 PM

Originally Posted by JimmyNeutral

Excellent! Thank you Seamus.

They have 2WD front hub. Non-stock item - shipping delayed up to 34 business days.

The only thing I'm not sure of is 'Excl 2" body raise'. Would my truck, being an HD with towing package have a factory raise? Is there a way I can tell?

Thanks again

I saw that too. I'd check the part number and price with what the dealer says. At 34 days delayed, paying a little extra from whoever can get it fastest may be worth it.

**JimmyNeutral** · 02-15-2008 12:36 AM

Originally Posted by luvtolean

I added a long pipe to that prybar for the hub on my truck as I don't need another hernia operation (or busted fingers when the bitch lets go). Per my last thread, 221 lbs-ft with threadlocker.

Jimmy, I'm local to you, if you need help let me know.

Thanks very much for the offer LTL, I really appreciate it

I'll let you know when the part arrives and when I'm planning on doing the transplant.

On a slightly different topic, did you get the clunky steering shaft problem with your truck? I understand that it's a known problem and subject of a service bulletin but only if the customer complains about it. Apparently, just replacing the intermediate shaft cures the problem. I'm hoping to do that at around the same time. It's not a safety issue though, just an annoyance.

I have to say that the truck is a pleasure to own and so far very reliable, despite the couple of quirks. It does a great job of hauling up to four sport bikes or dirt bikes to wherever they need to be.

**JimmyNeutral** · 02-15-2008 12:46 AM

Originally Posted by seamus

I saw that too. I'd check the part number and price with what the dealer says. At 34 days delayed, paying a little extra from whoever can get it fastest may be worth it.

Good advice

I will check with the dealer.

Luckily, since the weather has been good, I can do most of my commuting on the bikes. The truck just needs to be in good shape by April for our first track day of the season

**figment** · 02-15-2008 07:37 AM

a gas wrench will remove anything

**JimmyNeutral** · 02-21-2008 04:27 PM

I called the local Chevy dealer and was given a price of $366.60 (+ tax).

When I googled the part number he gave me, it shows up on RockAuto's website as the ACDelco front axle and hub assy for a 2WD Silverado (with CNG engine). They sell the part for $227.79 and shipping ($13.28) is delayed up to 12 business days.

I think I will pull the wheel and brake rotor off sometime this weekend and see if I can identify the existing hub as either Adelco or Timken. I need to verify if it really is the bearing that is making the noise anyway.

**luvtolean** · 02-21-2008 05:29 PM

Jack it up and push pull on the wheel, it'll be real obvious.

I went to Napa and bought mine. Their parts are usually pretty good. I don't remember the price, but I don't remember it being $300...they had it in stock.

Just DO NOT go to Pep Boys or Kragan (but you knew that)...

**ND4SPD** · 02-21-2008 05:57 PM

Originally Posted by luvtolean

Jack it up and push pull on the wheel, it'll be real obvious.

It should do it with the wheel on the ground also. Probably safer than yanking it around on a jack.

**luvtolean** · 02-21-2008 05:59 PM

Originally Posted by ND4SPD

It should do it with the wheel on the ground also. Probably safer than yanking it around on a jack.

Mine didn't. Out of pure laziness I tried. Up in the air, it moved inches.

**JimmyNeutral** · 02-23-2008 04:30 PM

Originally Posted by luvtolean

Mine didn't. Out of pure laziness I tried. Up in the air, it moved inches.

Yup, you're right LTL. In my case it moved only about 1/8 of an inch but very noticeable. Tried doing the same with the right-hand front wheel and it had no play at all.

Interestingly, I found that the alloy rims are made in Hungary. Reminded me of the British comedy show 'Open All Hours' with Ronnie Barker.

**seamus** · 02-23-2008 08:40 PM

Originally Posted by ND4SPD

It should do it with the wheel on the ground also. Probably safer than yanking it around on a jack.

Missed this one.

You won't notice the start of wheel bearing (or unit bearing for those of us fortunate to have them) failure with the wheel on the ground. By the time you can wiggle the wheel with the weight of the vehicle on it, it will have announced itself to the extreme while driving.

It doesn't take a lot of pressure to check and isn't unsafe. If you grab near the top and bottom of the tire and jiggle it and it moves at all, it's time to do some work.

Grabbing front and rear won't necessarily be wheel bearing related. Could be steering component issues (tie rod, drag link, etc).

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