HondaGalToo

Anyone know if warped rotors are a sort of common thing to happen on a '99 VFR? I think that's what might be going on. I hear a clunking when I'm pushing it around, as the wheel rotates past a certain spot. If I lift the front up, the front wheel is hard to spin in one area, easier otherwise, as I turn it. I do get some shuddering upon braking, but not too bad. Guess I'll be yanking the wheel off this weekend and looking at it. Any good methods for telling if a rotor is warped? The bike only has about 11k miles on it. I've never had a warped rotor on any bike before. What would cause a rotor to warp? Should I change them as a pair, or just the one that's warped (if that's what it ends up to be)?

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gt702

Lots of questions.

I'm not sure on the clunking sound. I'd take a look at making sure everything is tight, that your wheel and head stock bearings are in good condition, and that sort of thing.

I'm trying to remember from my '98 (doesn't work to well anymore ... memory that is ) and I seem to recall that they made the rotors thinner, and therefore easier to warp/bend in that generation. Could be a loose or sticking caliper, bumping the rotor into something, rough handling when changing a wheel, etc.

An easy way to check is to use a dial indicator with a stand, but if you don't have that, you can do it the poorman's way by using a pencil tip or something that won't scratch metal, hold it securely against the fork pointing at the rotor, then rotate the wheel looking for distance changes between the tip and the rotor. Find the high point and "zero out" your pointed and you'll be able to get an idea of the total run out.

Rotors can be straightened, and for the $20-ish dollars with shipping (again, not sure on the exact number, search the site) it is worth the chance before investing in new rotors. As long as the rotors are reasonably matched, there should be no reason to change both if only one is bad.

Hope that helps

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RedRider

Remove the front calipers and try spinning the wheel. It should be obvious if you look at the rotors while it's turning. Like GT said, you can also hold a pencil against the rotor and see if it marks the high/low spot.

If they are warped, send them to Will's Rim Repair He does excellent work for $10 a rotor.

CBRVFR

Check headstock bearings and wheel bearings. Some shuddering on decel is common if the headstock bearings are not preloaded correctly. Tires that are worn or 'cupped' can contribute to that as well.


The rotors can be slightly warped and still be within spec.
Excessive wear on the pads on one caliper might be a clue if that is happening.

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HondaGalToo

Thanks guys! I'll check out the rotors as described, and it's good to know there's a place that can fix them!

However, I don't know how to check the wheel bearings or headstock bearings. Could they be bad after only 11k miles?

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~Kurt Vonnegut, Jr.

Baketech

Not common to that bike at all, even with heavy use/abuse...

More likely it got tweaked during tire changing, trailer loading, or even bumped with one of the other farm implements in the garage...yadda yadda...

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HondaGalToo

Yeah, I don't know where the tires were changed last, that's possible. I don't think any crap in the garage banged into it. Can't remember if it was ever in the trailer. It was stored for a couple of years.

__________________
“I want to stand as close to the edge as I can without going over. Out on the edge you see all the kinds of things you can't see from the center.”
~Kurt Vonnegut, Jr.

gt702

I've had wheel bearings go at about 25K miles depending on pot holes and stuff. Head bearings can just be a little out of adjustment, and about 10k is where you probably want to make an adjustment.

For headstock bearings I usually hold the front brake and push the bike forward and back to see if I detect movement. Though the occassional "thud" during braking is usually what tips me off first. Raising the front end and pushing the forks back and forth is the official check, but I guess I'm not willing to push/pull that hard while up on a stand.

For wheel bearings, with the front raised, try to rotate the tire about its plane ... like simulating a whoble, and feel for any movement relative to the forks.

Also make sure that all of the brake parts in in their proper place and tightened properly. Also check that the miniature cylinder that applies the rear brake isn't binding up.

Bake should be the expert on the brakes, but he seems a little stingy on his information

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HondaGalToo

Update: Got the rotors off. The right one is pretty warped. The pads on one side were worn down to the metal carrier, but were fine on the other side. The left side rotor looks ok, but the brake pads on the outside have some funky wear...a few deep grooves cut into the pad material. Also on that side, as I turn the rotor, it appears to be periodically rubbing on the spring clip on the back of the caliper (pads are out at this point). The top of the rotor, not the side, appears to be hitting. The caliper on that side has a little piston type thing on the top, if I move the caliper up by hand, the rubbing stops. I'm hoping a good cleaning will fix that. I'm going to send the rotors to Will's (thanks Red!) after calling today. Ordered new pads. I'll clean it and get everything back together. If stuff is still rubbing, it'll have to go to the shop, 'cause that's the limit to what I know how to do with it!

__________________
“I want to stand as close to the edge as I can without going over. Out on the edge you see all the kinds of things you can't see from the center.”
~Kurt Vonnegut, Jr.