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Old 05-10-2008, 11:16 AM   #1
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Tech Tips: How to install the rear wheel on your Honda CBR.

Motorcycle maintenance strengthens the bond between you and your machine, and saves you cash! One of the more basic procedures a rider should learn is removing and installing your wheels. By bringing your wheels to the tire tech "off the bike", you will save money on the labor. Today we will cover only the rear wheel, because most squids will square off a back tire every 3 weeks or so...and only for Honda CBR motorcycles, because everyone knows Honda is the best. Your results may vary.

Tools you will need:

36mm socket
10mm wrench
1/2" drive long-handle ratchet
rear stand
rags
grease (I use a white lithium grease)
Torque wrench
Rum (or your choice of hard liquor, disinfectant mouthwash or shoe polish)

Removal:

1. Raise the rear of the bike with a stand
2. Loosen axle nut with 36mm socket
3. Turn chain adjusters clockwise until chain slackens enough to easily remove it from the driven sprocket
4. Fully remove axle nut and slide the axle out while supporting the wheel
5. Gently remove the rear wheel, causing floating brake caliper to drop to the floor, popping the pads out of the retainers

Now, take your uninstalled rear wheel to the shop for new rubber!

Installation:

1. Clean the axle and apply a thin coat of grease. Set it on a rag within reach
2. Fuck around with the rear caliper for about 15 minutes to get the pads seated in the retainers and spread apart to clear the rotor
3. Insert the spacers into the wheel bearings on each side of the wheel.
4. Roll the rear wheel part-way into place, while simultaneously placing the caliper mount into its guide inside the swingarm
5. Knock the pads out of their retainers, remove the caliper again and re-set the pads. Repeat 3 or 4 times
6. Very slowly and very very carefully, align the wheel and brake caliper, being extremely patient and cautious not to pop the pads back out
7. Sit on the garage floor directly behind your bike, with your legs on either side of the wheel and the handle of your rear stand poking your crotch. Hold the back of the rim and wedge your feet underneath the tire, slowly shimming the wheel up and into place. Bump the brake pads with the rotor, causing them to pop back out of the god damned retainers again.
8. Curse your deity of choice, in your preferred language. Stand up and bag yourself on the rear stand handle.
9. Walk it off, walk it off
10. Get back into position and repeat step 7 and 8, 2 or 3 more times each
11. Ok... really slowly raise that wheel into place, finally clearing the rotor without disturbing anything
12. Knock one or both of the stupid motherfucking spacers out of place. Swear, get up and kick something
13. Repeat step 11, this time trying from the side of your bike, you know, to eyeball everything a little better
14. Repeat step 12, stand up quickly and bang the side of your head on your foot peg. (if you use Vortex rearsets, call 911) Throw your wrench across the room.
15. Repeat steps 11 and 12, knocking the spacers onto the floor 17 or 18 times until you
16. FINALLY GET THE FUCKING THING ALIGNED and insert the axle and re-install the chain.
17. Adjust your chain so that there is approximately 1.5" inch of play, torque the axle nut, leave all your tools and shit all over the floor, slam the door and go back in the house.
18. Drink.


Hope this helps! Happy riding!
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Old 05-10-2008, 11:23 AM   #2
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if you were drunk to start with you could have blamed the troubles on that.
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Old 05-10-2008, 11:34 AM   #3
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What troubles?
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Old 05-10-2008, 11:35 AM   #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phobiaphobe View Post
What troubles?
isn't it a bit early to be drunk today?
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Old 05-10-2008, 11:38 AM   #5
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Nice write up, but step 16 could be like a whole tech tip unto itself you know...
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Old 05-10-2008, 11:44 AM   #6
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That was hilarious... a bit shorter version than what really happens but extremely accurate.
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Old 05-10-2008, 02:02 PM   #7
 
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Try that with aftermarket rims and spacers that DON'T FIT... ask JDB on that one, he helped last time.

Move step 18 closer to the top for better, more creative results.
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Old 05-10-2008, 03:13 PM   #8
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Hilarious - At least now that I've been to my analyst and have some 'distance' from the most recent similar episode.

I generally add a couple of steps between 11 and 15 where my patience evaporates and I terminally damage one of the parts involved, resulting in an expensive trip to the dealer.

Last edited by Shenders1; 05-10-2008 at 03:16 PM. Reason: dang it....
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Old 05-10-2008, 03:18 PM   #9
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What I need is a little box at just the right height to roll the wheel on to.
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Old 05-10-2008, 03:34 PM   #10
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Funny you mention that. After my last tire changing session (where I managed to actually snap a bolt on my NoMar), I sketched out a slim profile jack for the rear tire to do just that.
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Old 05-10-2008, 03:36 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by seamus View Post
Funny you mention that. After my last tire changing session (where I managed to actually snap a bolt on my NoMar), I sketched out a slim profile jack for the rear tire to do just that.
How'd your teeth make out?
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Old 05-10-2008, 03:37 PM   #12
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Hey I'll just grab some bike mags of the stack on the back of the shitter and use those.
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Old 05-10-2008, 03:48 PM   #13
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Quote:
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How'd your teeth make out?
I can't bite anything like that until I get these braces off. Right now looks like my birthday present this year.
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Old 05-10-2008, 05:47 PM   #14
 
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I stuff tissue at the top of the rear break pads to keep them apart. Even if your to drunk to remember to take it out it just gets flung.

Nice right up. you'd figure they would make it easier.
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Old 05-10-2008, 05:58 PM   #15
 
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Quote:
Originally Posted by phobiaphobe View Post
Motorcycle maintenance strengthens the bond between you and your machine, and saves you cash! One of the more basic procedures a rider should learn is removing and installing your wheels. By bringing your wheels to the tire tech "off the bike", you will save money on the labor. Today we will cover only the rear wheel, because most squids will square off a back tire every 3 weeks or so...and only for Honda CBR motorcycles, because everyone knows Honda is the best. Your results may vary.

Tools you will need:

36mm socket
10mm wrench
1/2" drive long-handle ratchet
rear stand
rags
grease (I use a white lithium grease)
Torque wrench
Rum (or your choice of hard liquor, disinfectant mouthwash or shoe polish)

Removal:

1. Raise the rear of the bike with a stand
2. Loosen axle nut with 36mm socket
3. Turn chain adjusters clockwise until chain slackens enough to easily remove it from the driven sprocket
4. Fully remove axle nut and slide the axle out while supporting the wheel
5. Gently remove the rear wheel, causing floating brake caliper to drop to the floor, popping the pads out of the retainers

Now, take your uninstalled rear wheel to the shop for new rubber!

Installation:

1. Clean the axle and apply a thin coat of grease. Set it on a rag within reach
2. Fuck around with the rear caliper for about 15 minutes to get the pads seated in the retainers and spread apart to clear the rotor
3. Insert the spacers into the wheel bearings on each side of the wheel.
4. Roll the rear wheel part-way into place, while simultaneously placing the caliper mount into its guide inside the swingarm
5. Knock the pads out of their retainers, remove the caliper again and re-set the pads. Repeat 3 or 4 times
6. Very slowly and very very carefully, align the wheel and brake caliper, being extremely patient and cautious not to pop the pads back out
7. Sit on the garage floor directly behind your bike, with your legs on either side of the wheel and the handle of your rear stand poking your crotch. Hold the back of the rim and wedge your feet underneath the tire, slowly shimming the wheel up and into place. Bump the brake pads with the rotor, causing them to pop back out of the god damned retainers again.
8. Curse your deity of choice, in your preferred language. Stand up and bag yourself on the rear stand handle.
9. Walk it off, walk it off
10. Get back into position and repeat step 7 and 8, 2 or 3 more times each
11. Ok... really slowly raise that wheel into place, finally clearing the rotor without disturbing anything
12. Knock one or both of the stupid motherfucking spacers out of place. Swear, get up and kick something
13. Repeat step 11, this time trying from the side of your bike, you know, to eyeball everything a little better
14. Repeat step 12, stand up quickly and bang the side of your head on your foot peg. (if you use Vortex rearsets, call 911) Throw your wrench across the room.
15. Repeat steps 11 and 12, knocking the spacers onto the floor 17 or 18 times until you
16. FINALLY GET THE FUCKING THING ALIGNED and insert the axle and re-install the chain.
17. Adjust your chain so that there is approximately 1.5" inch of play, torque the axle nut, leave all your tools and shit all over the floor, slam the door and go back in the house.
18. Drink.


Hope this helps! Happy riding!
lol...a ritual I've grown very familiar with. Those spacers and rear caliper alignment have caused me to fantasize often of torture befitting the Honda engineers. After owning this particular bike three years now I can assure you it does get easier after time.
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Old 05-10-2008, 08:27 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NorthernRR View Post
Try that with aftermarket rims and spacers that DON'T FIT... ask JDB on that one, he helped last time.

Move step 18 closer to the top for better, more creative results.
I now find my wheel easy to install thanks to you!
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Old 05-10-2008, 08:37 PM   #17
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1098 Rear Wheel Removal and Reinstallation:

1. Loosen wheel nut
2. Remove wheel
3. Replace wheel
4. Tighten nut

The single-sided swing arm looks sweet, but man does it make tire changes easy! One of my favorite things about the bike.
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Old 05-10-2008, 08:46 PM   #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwhip View Post
1098 Rear Wheel Removal and Reinstallation:

1. Loosen wheel nut
2. Remove wheel
3. Replace wheel
4. Tighten nut

The single-sided swing arm looks sweet, but man does it make tire changes easy! One of my favorite things about the bike.
Oh come on, don't try to over simplify. You know you forgot the step where you put it on the rear stand.


I figure I'm about a week away from my first time doing a CBR rear wheel so after reading phobe's account I'm wishing mine was more like your's.
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Old 05-10-2008, 11:11 PM   #19
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I've found that a 2 X 4 is the perfect height for the wheel to sit on while getting the caliper on and threading the needle, I mean getting the rear axle back in place. I've done it so many times that start to finish takes me about 30minutes.

Your write up does sound like the first couple of times I tried it.
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Old 05-11-2008, 04:40 AM   #20
 
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2X4 or a size 13 does the trick!
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Old 05-11-2008, 07:44 AM   #21
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Nice job of accuratly describing this joyful bit of bike maintenence, Phobe!

Though, I have to point out that you left out a step....

16a. After axle is in place, realize you forgot to put the chain over the sprocket...repeat steps 1-16 as necessary (might want to insert step 18 first).

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Old 05-11-2008, 07:58 AM   #22
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bwhip View Post
1098 Rear Wheel Removal and Reinstallation:

1. Loosen wheel nut
2. Remove wheel
3. Replace wheel
4. Tighten nut

The single-sided swing arm looks sweet, but man does it make tire changes easy! One of my favorite things about the bike.
So you are a fan of Honda Vanilla with German and Italian sprinkles too...smart man..
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Old 05-11-2008, 09:27 AM   #23
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Nice -

two real world observations - Honda rear wheels are a very easy to deal with compared with my SV650.

Second, whenever you change wheels, before you go in and drink, pump up those brakes, folks.
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Old 05-11-2008, 03:13 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DrHall View Post
Nice job of accuratly describing this joyful bit of bike maintenence, Phobe!

Though, I have to point out that you left out a step....

16a. After axle is in place, realize you forgot to put the chain over the sprocket...repeat steps 1-16 as necessary (might want to insert step 18 first).

I usually don't have much trouble at all but thats the one that usually happens to me. either that or it manages to get wedged under one of the sprocket nuts so I have to take the whole damn thing apart again.
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Old 05-11-2008, 03:25 PM   #25
 
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First time I helped change a tire with first call going I decided my aftermarket wheel with captured spacers was cheap at twice the price.
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