Tech Tips: How to install the rear wheel on your Honda CBR.

phobe · 05-10-2008, 11:16 AM

Motorcycle maintenance strengthens the bond between you and your machine, and saves you cash! One of the more basic procedures a rider should learn is removing and installing your wheels. By bringing your wheels to the tire tech "off the bike", you will save money on the labor. Today we will cover only the rear wheel, because most squids will square off a back tire every 3 weeks or so...and only for Honda CBR motorcycles, because everyone knows Honda is the best. Your results may vary.

Tools you will need:

36mm socket
10mm wrench
1/2" drive long-handle ratchet
rear stand
rags
grease (I use a white lithium grease)
Torque wrench
Rum (or your choice of hard liquor, disinfectant mouthwash or shoe polish)

Removal:

1. Raise the rear of the bike with a stand
2. Loosen axle nut with 36mm socket
3. Turn chain adjusters clockwise until chain slackens enough to easily remove it from the driven sprocket
4. Fully remove axle nut and slide the axle out while supporting the wheel
5. Gently remove the rear wheel, causing floating brake caliper to drop to the floor, popping the pads out of the retainers

Now, take your uninstalled rear wheel to the shop for new rubber!

Installation:

1. Clean the axle and apply a thin coat of grease. Set it on a rag within reach
2. Fuck around with the rear caliper for about 15 minutes to get the pads seated in the retainers and spread apart to clear the rotor
3. Insert the spacers into the wheel bearings on each side of the wheel.
4. Roll the rear wheel part-way into place, while simultaneously placing the caliper mount into its guide inside the swingarm
5. Knock the pads out of their retainers, remove the caliper again and re-set the pads. Repeat 3 or 4 times
6. Very slowly and very very carefully, align the wheel and brake caliper, being extremely patient and cautious not to pop the pads back out
7. Sit on the garage floor directly behind your bike, with your legs on either side of the wheel and the handle of your rear stand poking your crotch. Hold the back of the rim and wedge your feet underneath the tire, slowly shimming the wheel up and into place. Bump the brake pads with the rotor, causing them to pop back out of the god damned retainers again.
8. Curse your deity of choice, in your preferred language. Stand up and bag yourself on the rear stand handle.
9. Walk it off, walk it off
10. Get back into position and repeat step 7 and 8, 2 or 3 more times each
11. Ok... really slowly raise that wheel into place, finally clearing the rotor without disturbing anything
12. Knock one or both of the stupid motherfucking spacers out of place. Swear, get up and kick something
13. Repeat step 11, this time trying from the side of your bike, you know, to eyeball everything a little better
14. Repeat step 12, stand up quickly and bang the side of your head on your foot peg. (if you use Vortex rearsets, call 911) Throw your wrench across the room.
15. Repeat steps 11 and 12, knocking the spacers onto the floor 17 or 18 times until you
16. FINALLY GET THE FUCKING THING ALIGNED and insert the axle and re-install the chain.
17. Adjust your chain so that there is approximately 1.5" inch of play, torque the axle nut, leave all your tools and shit all over the floor, slam the door and go back in the house.
18. Drink.

Hope this helps! Happy riding!

CBR929RE · 05-10-2008, 11:23 AM

if you were drunk to start with you could have blamed the troubles on that.

phobe · 05-10-2008, 11:34 AM

What troubles?

CBR929RE · 05-10-2008, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phobiaphobe

What troubles?

isn't it a bit early to be drunk today?

SomeStrangeGuy · 05-10-2008, 11:38 AM

Nice write up, but step 16 could be like a whole tech tip unto itself you know...

ONEvcs · 05-10-2008, 11:44 AM

That was hilarious... a bit shorter version than what really happens but extremely accurate.

NorthernRR · 05-10-2008, 02:02 PM

Try that with aftermarket rims and spacers that DON'T FIT... ask JDB on that one, he helped last time.

Move step 18 closer to the top for better, more creative results.

Shenders1 · 05-10-2008, 03:13 PM

Hilarious - At least now that I've been to my analyst and have some 'distance' from the most recent similar episode.

I generally add a couple of steps between 11 and 15 where my patience evaporates and I terminally damage one of the parts involved, resulting in an expensive trip to the dealer.

phobe · 05-10-2008, 03:18 PM

What I need is a little box at just the right height to roll the wheel on to.

seamus · 05-10-2008, 03:34 PM

Funny you mention that. After my last tire changing session (where I managed to actually snap a bolt on my NoMar), I sketched out a slim profile jack for the rear tire to do just that.

phobe · 05-10-2008, 03:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seamus

Funny you mention that. After my last tire changing session (where I managed to actually snap a bolt on my NoMar), I sketched out a slim profile jack for the rear tire to do just that.

How'd your teeth make out?

phobe · 05-10-2008, 03:37 PM

Hey I'll just grab some bike mags of the stack on the back of the shitter and use those.

seamus · 05-10-2008, 03:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phobiaphobe

How'd your teeth make out?

I can't bite anything like that until I get these braces off. Right now looks like my birthday present this year.

Repeater · 05-10-2008, 05:47 PM

I stuff tissue at the top of the rear break pads to keep them apart. Even if your to drunk to remember to take it out it just gets flung.

Nice right up. you'd figure they would make it easier.

TornadoB8 · 05-10-2008, 05:58 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by phobiaphobe

Motorcycle maintenance strengthens the bond between you and your machine, and saves you cash! One of the more basic procedures a rider should learn is removing and installing your wheels. By bringing your wheels to the tire tech "off the bike", you will save money on the labor. Today we will cover only the rear wheel, because most squids will square off a back tire every 3 weeks or so...and only for Honda CBR motorcycles, because everyone knows Honda is the best. Your results may vary.

Tools you will need:

36mm socket
10mm wrench
1/2" drive long-handle ratchet
rear stand
rags
grease (I use a white lithium grease)
Torque wrench
Rum (or your choice of hard liquor, disinfectant mouthwash or shoe polish)

Removal:

1. Raise the rear of the bike with a stand
2. Loosen axle nut with 36mm socket
3. Turn chain adjusters clockwise until chain slackens enough to easily remove it from the driven sprocket
4. Fully remove axle nut and slide the axle out while supporting the wheel
5. Gently remove the rear wheel, causing floating brake caliper to drop to the floor, popping the pads out of the retainers

Now, take your uninstalled rear wheel to the shop for new rubber!

Installation:

1. Clean the axle and apply a thin coat of grease. Set it on a rag within reach
2. Fuck around with the rear caliper for about 15 minutes to get the pads seated in the retainers and spread apart to clear the rotor
3. Insert the spacers into the wheel bearings on each side of the wheel.
4. Roll the rear wheel part-way into place, while simultaneously placing the caliper mount into its guide inside the swingarm
5. Knock the pads out of their retainers, remove the caliper again and re-set the pads. Repeat 3 or 4 times
6. Very slowly and very very carefully, align the wheel and brake caliper, being extremely patient and cautious not to pop the pads back out
7. Sit on the garage floor directly behind your bike, with your legs on either side of the wheel and the handle of your rear stand poking your crotch. Hold the back of the rim and wedge your feet underneath the tire, slowly shimming the wheel up and into place. Bump the brake pads with the rotor, causing them to pop back out of the god damned retainers again.
8. Curse your deity of choice, in your preferred language. Stand up and bag yourself on the rear stand handle.
9. Walk it off, walk it off
10. Get back into position and repeat step 7 and 8, 2 or 3 more times each
11. Ok... really slowly raise that wheel into place, finally clearing the rotor without disturbing anything
12. Knock one or both of the stupid motherfucking spacers out of place. Swear, get up and kick something
13. Repeat step 11, this time trying from the side of your bike, you know, to eyeball everything a little better
14. Repeat step 12, stand up quickly and bang the side of your head on your foot peg. (if you use Vortex rearsets, call 911) Throw your wrench across the room.
15. Repeat steps 11 and 12, knocking the spacers onto the floor 17 or 18 times until you
16. FINALLY GET THE FUCKING THING ALIGNED and insert the axle and re-install the chain.
17. Adjust your chain so that there is approximately 1.5" inch of play, torque the axle nut, leave all your tools and shit all over the floor, slam the door and go back in the house.
18. Drink.

Hope this helps! Happy riding!

lol...a ritual I've grown very familiar with. Those spacers and rear caliper alignment have caused me to fantasize often of torture befitting the Honda engineers. After owning this particular bike three years now I can assure you it does get easier after time.

Jetbdude · 05-10-2008, 08:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NorthernRR

Try that with aftermarket rims and spacers that DON'T FIT... ask JDB on that one, he helped last time.

Move step 18 closer to the top for better, more creative results.

I now find my wheel easy to install thanks to you!

bwhip · 05-10-2008, 08:37 PM

1098 Rear Wheel Removal and Reinstallation:

1. Loosen wheel nut
2. Remove wheel
3. Replace wheel
4. Tighten nut

The single-sided swing arm looks sweet, but man does it make tire changes easy! One of my favorite things about the bike.

slickwill · 05-10-2008, 08:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwhip

1098 Rear Wheel Removal and Reinstallation:

1. Loosen wheel nut
2. Remove wheel
3. Replace wheel
4. Tighten nut

The single-sided swing arm looks sweet, but man does it make tire changes easy! One of my favorite things about the bike.

Oh come on, don't try to over simplify. You know you forgot the step where you put it on the rear stand.

I figure I'm about a week away from my first time doing a CBR rear wheel so after reading phobe's account I'm wishing mine was more like your's.

davef · 05-10-2008, 11:11 PM

I've found that a 2 X 4 is the perfect height for the wheel to sit on while getting the caliper on and threading the needle, I mean getting the rear axle back in place. I've done it so many times that start to finish takes me about 30minutes.

Your write up does sound like the first couple of times I tried it.

Repeater · 05-11-2008, 04:40 AM

2X4 or a size 13 does the trick!

DrHall · 05-11-2008, 07:44 AM

Nice job of accuratly describing this joyful bit of bike maintenence, Phobe!

Though, I have to point out that you left out a step....

16a. After axle is in place, realize you forgot to put the

chain over the sprocket...repeat steps 1-16 as necessary (might want to insert step 18 first).

Baketech · 05-11-2008, 07:58 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by bwhip

1098 Rear Wheel Removal and Reinstallation:

1. Loosen wheel nut
2. Remove wheel
3. Replace wheel
4. Tighten nut

The single-sided swing arm looks sweet, but man does it make tire changes easy! One of my favorite things about the bike.

So you are a fan of Honda Vanilla with German and Italian sprinkles too...smart man..

CBRVFR · 05-11-2008, 09:27 AM

Nice -

two real world observations - Honda rear wheels are a very easy to deal with compared with my SV650.

Second, whenever you change wheels, before you go in and drink, pump up those brakes, folks.

CBR929RE · 05-11-2008, 03:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DrHall

Nice job of accuratly describing this joyful bit of bike maintenence, Phobe!

Though, I have to point out that you left out a step....

16a. After axle is in place, realize you forgot to put the

chain over the sprocket...repeat steps 1-16 as necessary (might want to insert step 18 first).

I usually don't have much trouble at all but thats the one that usually happens to me. either that or it manages to get wedged under one of the sprocket nuts so I have to take the whole damn thing apart again.

luvtolean · 05-11-2008, 03:25 PM

First time I helped change a tire with first call going I decided my aftermarket wheel with captured spacers was cheap at twice the price.

05-10-2008, 11:16 AM	#1
phobe circa 1970 Join Date: 12-17-2006 Age: 26 Bike(s): 600RR, 125R Posts: 4,637	Tech Tips: How to install the rear wheel on your Honda CBR. Motorcycle maintenance strengthens the bond between you and your machine, and saves you cash! One of the more basic procedures a rider should learn is removing and installing your wheels. By bringing your wheels to the tire tech "off the bike", you will save money on the labor. Today we will cover only the rear wheel, because most squids will square off a back tire every 3 weeks or so...and only for Honda CBR motorcycles, because everyone knows Honda is the best. Your results may vary. Tools you will need: 36mm socket 10mm wrench 1/2" drive long-handle ratchet rear stand rags grease (I use a white lithium grease) Torque wrench Rum (or your choice of hard liquor, disinfectant mouthwash or shoe polish) Removal: 1. Raise the rear of the bike with a stand 2. Loosen axle nut with 36mm socket 3. Turn chain adjusters clockwise until chain slackens enough to easily remove it from the driven sprocket 4. Fully remove axle nut and slide the axle out while supporting the wheel 5. Gently remove the rear wheel, causing floating brake caliper to drop to the floor, popping the pads out of the retainers Now, take your uninstalled rear wheel to the shop for new rubber! Installation: 1. Clean the axle and apply a thin coat of grease. Set it on a rag within reach 2. Fuck around with the rear caliper for about 15 minutes to get the pads seated in the retainers and spread apart to clear the rotor 3. Insert the spacers into the wheel bearings on each side of the wheel. 4. Roll the rear wheel part-way into place, while simultaneously placing the caliper mount into its guide inside the swingarm 5. Knock the pads out of their retainers, remove the caliper again and re-set the pads. Repeat 3 or 4 times 6. Very slowly and very very carefully, align the wheel and brake caliper, being extremely patient and cautious not to pop the pads back out 7. Sit on the garage floor directly behind your bike, with your legs on either side of the wheel and the handle of your rear stand poking your crotch. Hold the back of the rim and wedge your feet underneath the tire, slowly shimming the wheel up and into place. Bump the brake pads with the rotor, causing them to pop back out of the god damned retainers again. 8. Curse your deity of choice, in your preferred language. Stand up and bag yourself on the rear stand handle. 9. Walk it off, walk it off 10. Get back into position and repeat step 7 and 8, 2 or 3 more times each 11. Ok... really slowly raise that wheel into place, finally clearing the rotor without disturbing anything 12. Knock one or both of the stupid motherfucking spacers out of place. Swear, get up and kick something 13. Repeat step 11, this time trying from the side of your bike, you know, to eyeball everything a little better 14. Repeat step 12, stand up quickly and bang the side of your head on your foot peg. (if you use Vortex rearsets, call 911) Throw your wrench across the room. 15. Repeat steps 11 and 12, knocking the spacers onto the floor 17 or 18 times until you 16. FINALLY GET THE FUCKING THING ALIGNED and insert the axle and re-install the chain. 17. Adjust your chain so that there is approximately 1.5" inch of play, torque the axle nut, leave all your tools and shit all over the floor, slam the door and go back in the house. 18. Drink. Hope this helps! Happy riding! __________________ Cum hoc, ergo propter hoc

05-10-2008, 11:23 AM	#2
CBR929RE Go Sox! Join Date: 12-18-2006 Location: at home Age: 28 Bike(s): 01 R/B/W CBR929RR Posts: 3,315	if you were drunk to start with you could have blamed the troubles on that. __________________ if you can't fix it with duct tape, you haven't used enough.

05-10-2008, 11:34 AM	#3
phobe circa 1970 Join Date: 12-17-2006 Age: 26 Bike(s): 600RR, 125R Posts: 4,637	What troubles? __________________ Cum hoc, ergo propter hoc

05-10-2008, 11:38 AM	#5
SomeStrangeGuy no longer ready to mingle. Join Date: 12-13-2006 Location: Debt, where else? Bike(s): GS / KLR Posts: 3,820	Nice write up, but step 16 could be like a whole tech tip unto itself you know... __________________ GPS Discussion Forums Time is the ultimate currency.

05-10-2008, 02:02 PM	#7
NorthernRR Join Date: 12-18-2006 Age: 28 Bike(s): 1KRR, VFR, CRF450R, EX500 Posts: 1,402	Try that with aftermarket rims and spacers that DON'T FIT... ask JDB on that one, he helped last time. Move step 18 closer to the top for better, more creative results. __________________ See you at Indy

05-10-2008, 11:44 AM	#6
ONEvcs Bull Fighter Join Date: 12-18-2006 Location: Ft. Worth Age: 40 Bike(s): '05CBR1000RR. Posts: 2,466 Images: 99	That was hilarious... a bit shorter version than what really happens but extremely accurate.

05-10-2008, 03:13 PM	#8
Shenders1 2 Cylinders, 4 Valves, No Waiting Join Date: 01-14-2007 Location: South Lyon, MI Age: 43 Bike(s): Ducati HM Posts: 968	Hilarious - At least now that I've been to my analyst and have some 'distance' from the most recent similar episode. I generally add a couple of steps between 11 and 15 where my patience evaporates and I terminally damage one of the parts involved, resulting in an expensive trip to the dealer. Last edited by Shenders1; 05-10-2008 at 03:16 PM. Reason: dang it....

05-10-2008, 03:18 PM	#9
phobe circa 1970 Join Date: 12-17-2006 Age: 26 Bike(s): 600RR, 125R Posts: 4,637	What I need is a little box at just the right height to roll the wheel on to. __________________ Cum hoc, ergo propter hoc

05-10-2008, 03:34 PM	#10
seamus is feelin alright Join Date: 12-13-2006 Location: Rocket City Age: 34 Bike(s): 1KRR; VFR; FMX650 Posts: 5,497	Funny you mention that. After my last tire changing session (where I managed to actually snap a bolt on my NoMar), I sketched out a slim profile jack for the rear tire to do just that. __________________ Ducit Amor Patriae Richard Herald, The Gentle Giant The nation that makes a great distinction between its scholars and its warriors will have its thinking done by cowards and its fighting done by fools. --- Thucydides

05-10-2008, 03:37 PM	#12
phobe circa 1970 Join Date: 12-17-2006 Age: 26 Bike(s): 600RR, 125R Posts: 4,637	Hey I'll just grab some bike mags of the stack on the back of the shitter and use those. __________________ Cum hoc, ergo propter hoc

05-10-2008, 05:47 PM	#14
Repeater Join Date: 12-28-2006 Age: 33 Bike(s): F4I Posts: 524	I stuff tissue at the top of the rear break pads to keep them apart. Even if your to drunk to remember to take it out it just gets flung. Nice right up. you'd figure they would make it easier.

05-10-2008, 08:37 PM	#17
bwhip Every ride a gift... Join Date: 12-13-2006 Location: Idaho, USA Bike(s): 1098S-SXV550-849-Ruckus Posts: 3,906	1098 Rear Wheel Removal and Reinstallation: 1. Loosen wheel nut 2. Remove wheel 3. Replace wheel 4. Tighten nut The single-sided swing arm looks sweet, but man does it make tire changes easy! One of my favorite things about the bike. __________________ Seamus is awesome. Seriously. My Gallery

05-10-2008, 11:11 PM	#19
davef Daddysaurus Join Date: 12-19-2006 Location: Reading, PA Age: 35 Bike(s): 954 Posts: 377	I've found that a 2 X 4 is the perfect height for the wheel to sit on while getting the caliper on and threading the needle, I mean getting the rear axle back in place. I've done it so many times that start to finish takes me about 30minutes. Your write up does sound like the first couple of times I tried it. __________________ 2002 945RR "Dark" Ohlins, Galfer, 520 Conversion, Mig Half System, and Crap Plastic

05-11-2008, 04:40 AM	#20
Repeater Join Date: 12-28-2006 Age: 33 Bike(s): F4I Posts: 524	2X4 or a size 13 does the trick!

05-11-2008, 07:44 AM	#21
DrHall A Redneck Who Has Truly Arrived Join Date: 08-21-2007 Location: SW Florida Age: 49 Bike(s): DUC MTS 1000sDS, RC51 Posts: 998	Nice job of accuratly describing this joyful bit of bike maintenence, Phobe! Though, I have to point out that you left out a step.... 16a. After axle is in place, realize you forgot to put the chain over the sprocket...repeat steps 1-16 as necessary (might want to insert step 18 first). __________________ the percentage you're paying is too high priced-you're living beyond all your means, and the man in the suit has just bought a new car with the profit he's made on your dreams....

05-11-2008, 09:27 AM	#23
CBRVFR Godspeed, #20 Join Date: 12-13-2006 Age: 55 Bike(s): VFR750 SV650 TZ250 Posts: 5,040	Nice - two real world observations - Honda rear wheels are a very easy to deal with compared with my SV650. Second, whenever you change wheels, before you go in and drink, pump up those brakes, folks. __________________ "...the TV also never took away the screwdriver and shoved it up the repairman's ass." Our own Mr.2nd Amendment, explaining the difference. Perfectly. Rich Herald, the Gentle Giant

05-11-2008, 03:25 PM	#25
luvtolean Join Date: 12-13-2006 Location: SF Bay Area, CA Bike(s): 2008 BMW GS-A Posts: 6,341	First time I helped change a tire with first call going I decided my aftermarket wheel with captured spacers was cheap at twice the price. __________________ Someone needs to present the facts and the physics rather than just the rhetoric. Poor old Carmelo doesn't understand the physics of a motorcycle. - Jerry Burgess, on spec tires and changing engine rules