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Thread: Drillbits?

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    American Pikey BizJetGuy's Avatar
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    Drillbits?

    Anyone recommend a good brand of drillbit readily available? I'd prefer not to mail order but will do so if the product is that good.

    Project: drilling out 40 year old spot welds on a British POS (car, not bike). The bits from Lowe's/HD are pure shite. The Hitachi brand aren't even worth putting in the chuck. I get maybe two pilot holes drilled with the 1/8" bit and it's already toast. The DeWalt brand is a little better but I'm still going through them like an M&M bag.

    Drilling steel, not aluminum.

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    It's Who You Know That Counts luvtolean's Avatar
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    Do you want a full index?

    Rutland has a good special going on high quality Chicago Latrobe drills, go to page 6:

    http://rutlandonsale.dirxioncdn.com/...eId=7.0.4.0002#

    I have a Prestige USA full index I got from Rutland a while back, and it's not bad, but at this sale price, this is what I'd buy.
    Last edited by luvtolean; 05-07-2009 at 10:58 PM.
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    Now with custom avatar. SomeStrangeGuy's Avatar
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    You want COBALT bits, not TiN or anything else...I used the Bosch's at HD but found the DeWalts to be a little morer betterer.

    I assume you know you drill steel faster if you drill it slower right? and using old non-synthetic bike oil works well for some reason too.
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    ? slickwill's Avatar
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    I used actual cutting oil rather than old bike oil when drilling through the frame of my '77 Chevy 4x4. It made a lot more of a difference than when I tried fancy bits.
    ...dude you ride an offroad bike with slicks, 1/2 the weight of a GS, double the suspension, with a browning 50 cal going off 32" from your skull as a daily freaking driver - I'd expect anything except a nitro dragbike to be bland by comparison - SSG

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    No Hammer this year :( 08silvercbr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BizJetGuy View Post
    Anyone recommend a good brand of drillbit readily available? I'd prefer not to mail order but will do so if the product is that good.

    Project: drilling out 40 year old spot welds on a British POS (car, not bike). The bits from Lowe's/HD are pure shite. The Hitachi brand aren't even worth putting in the chuck. I get maybe two pilot holes drilled with the 1/8" bit and it's already toast. The DeWalt brand is a little better but I'm still going through them like an M&M bag.

    Drilling steel, not aluminum.

    Are you looking for a spot weld drill bit or just drill bits? The snap on ones are what I use: SWDK4516, Cutter, Spot Weld, 5/16" ..only mine has a removable 1/8" bit in the center for a guide. I've use the same one daily at times for a few years and its still sharp. Broke one, but they warranty them. My regular snap-on high speed bits are OK (nothing to brag about) but I bought a drill doctor which works awesome for sharpening them once you get the hang of it.
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    No Hammer this year :( 08silvercbr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by slickwill View Post
    I used actual cutting oil rather than old bike oil when drilling through the frame of my '77 Chevy 4x4. It made a lot more of a difference than when I tried fancy bits.
    yeah that works good too.. even wd-40 when drilling helps
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    American Pikey BizJetGuy's Avatar
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    Just looking for 1/8" and 3/16" bits. No need for the full index. I'm drilling low-speed on the steel and using Boelube on the bits.

    With what I'm doing (drilling out rusted panels and replacing with new) I really don't have a need for spot-weld bits.
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    No Hammer this year :( 08silvercbr's Avatar
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    Are you drilling the spot welds all the way through both layers of metal? The spot weld bits get through the first layer of metal leaving the good panel layer unhurt. You might already know that.. just making sure. That's how I replace qtr panels
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    DILLIGAF Hammer's Avatar
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    As SSG said, I use the Dewalt Cobalt bits. Have had the current set for about a year or so, still do the job. No issues with them so far.
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    American Pikey BizJetGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 08silvercbr View Post
    Are you drilling the spot welds all the way through both layers of metal? The spot weld bits get through the first layer of metal leaving the good panel layer unhurt. You might already know that.. just making sure. That's how I replace qtr panels
    It's an odd set up. I'm currently working on the sills/rockers and drilling through about four layers of metal, three of which will be replaced. The structure that I will weld the new pieces to needs to have holes for the plug welds.

    I may try and take a picture or two to explain. I used a spot weld bit on another part of the car so I know what you're talking about. However, that won't work in this particular area.

    Thanks for the guidance, guys! I'll pick up a couple of cobalt bits and give them a shot.
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    Now with custom avatar. SomeStrangeGuy's Avatar
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    I have some used non-moly oil I will send you too, just give me an address where you have access to a loading dock
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    American Pikey BizJetGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by SomeStrangeGuy View Post
    I have some used non-moly oil I will send you too, just give me an address where you have access to a loading dock


    I can see the explanation to the wife now...
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    No Hammer this year :( 08silvercbr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BizJetGuy View Post
    It's an odd set up. I'm currently working on the sills/rockers and drilling through about four layers of metal, three of which will be replaced. The structure that I will weld the new pieces to needs to have holes for the plug welds.

    I may try and take a picture or two to explain. I used a spot weld bit on another part of the car so I know what you're talking about. However, that won't work in this particular area.

    Thanks for the guidance, guys! I'll pick up a couple of cobalt bits and give them a shot.
    Ah.. 4 layers aye. I bet you are trying to remove drip rails
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    "Able was I ere I saw Elba..." Baketech's Avatar
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    4 layers you say? Is the third one sour cream, or avocado? Can I get another basket of chips over here....
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    American Pikey BizJetGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by 08silvercbr View Post
    Ah.. 4 layers aye. I bet you are trying to remove drip rails
    Actually, the sill/rocker assembly is the inner sill, a structural support in the middle and then the rocker panel itself. There's also a "castle rail" that holds it all together on the bottom. See items 10, 11, 12, 13. Note the circle that shows how the pieces go together.

    MossMotors.com - Restoration Parts And Accessories For British Cars

    Between the gap in the doorway, there are pieces of metal that the assembly welds to. There's really no way to use a spot weld bit and you need to drill some holes to plug it together anyway. Make any sense?


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    No Hammer this year :( 08silvercbr's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BizJetGuy View Post
    Actually, the sill/rocker assembly is the inner sill, a structural support in the middle and then the rocker panel itself. There's also a "castle rail" that holds it all together on the bottom. See items 10, 11, 12, 13. Note the circle that shows how the pieces go together.

    MossMotors.com - Restoration Parts And Accessories For British Cars

    Between the gap in the doorway, there are pieces of metal that the assembly welds to. There's really no way to use a spot weld bit and you need to drill some holes to plug it together anyway. Make any sense?
    Yeah I see now. That crap is a pain.
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    American Pikey BizJetGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hammer View Post
    As SSG said, I use the Dewalt Cobalt bits. Have had the current set for about a year or so, still do the job. No issues with them so far.
    Put the 1/8" through it's paces last night and didn't snap a single one. Works good, lasts long time

    The guys on the assembly line must have been paid per spot weld. Jeez...
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  18. #18
    Now with custom avatar. SomeStrangeGuy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by BizJetGuy View Post
    Put the 1/8" through it's paces last night and didn't snap a single one. Works good, lasts long time

    The guys on the assembly line must have been paid per spot weld. Jeez...


    ...although I suggested it, I must give credit to Abtech and LTL on this one. Several years ago I was in a safety wiring hell and they pointed me to the Cobalt units. They aren't as 'advertised' as the TiN stuff, but looking for that little 'cobalt' in the corner sure does make a big difference!
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